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Thread: Please ask your basic (newbie) questions in here.

  1. #201
    Member
    Registered: Apr 2005
    Location: Hungary
    Uh, sounds a bit complicated. But I guess I just have to get used to the new "Unreal-magic" . Thanks Nomad!

  2. #202
    Member
    Registered: Sep 2004
    Location: Dunno. What week is it?
    I correctly resize the builder brush, then place it in the void seperating my two rooms, but when i click add nothing happens. Can anyone help me?
    If you drag the Builder Brush out of the way, do you see a blue brush remaining in its place after adding? If so, did you Build All? Nothing will be added until you do that.

  3. #203
    Member
    Registered: Sep 2004
    Location: Dunno. What week is it?
    How can I make a sky?
    Sirbalu, I for got to mention, when you create your sky box, be sure to select the bottom surface, select its properties and set the flag "Do not add to Navmesh". This will save a lot of time when you rebuild your map.

  4. #204
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be
    Since the topic of doors came up......

    I built two 512x512 brushes and placed them 16 units apart. I then built a 16x64x128 brush and placed it inbetween the larger brushes and subtracted it. In effect, I placed a "doorway" 16 units deep, 64 units wide, and 128 units high. I then placed a doorframe on either side, and a door in the middle.

    My question whether or not this is proper. Granted there are probably 20 ways to do it. But what I wanted to know is whether or not there is a difference between this and the other suggestions about "adding" a brush to represent the "wall" between the two 512x512 brushes (put another way, make a 512x1024 brush and then add a bush to represent the wall down the middle). Is one way more effecient/better? I still haven't gotten the door to work, but that's because my laptop keeps crashing when I go to play the level .

  5. #205
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be
    Cool, I used the X-box export trick and now I can run the level on my laptop.

    Time for a COMPLETELY noob question. How do I actually get a door to open? I don't see scripts associated with the other doors in the maps from the retail version. I also didn't see a property for it. I saw the "rotation" field, but changing those values changed the orientation of the door in the editor, which I figured was just a way to rotate the actor, not activate the door.

    I also didn't see anything about this in the tutorials or threads. Probably because it's too basic .

  6. #206
    Make sure you're placing a door object from the actor hierarchy, and not a door static mesh from the static mesh browser. If you did that, all you have to do is frob it; there's no extra work (unless you want to change direction, speed, sound, etc).

  7. #207
    Member
    Registered: Sep 2004
    Location: Dunno. What week is it?
    Posted by 2003MINI:
    I built two 512x512 brushes and placed them 16 units apart. I then built a 16x64x128 brush and placed it inbetween the larger brushes and subtracted it. In effect, I placed a "doorway" 16 units deep, 64 units wide, and 128 units high. I then placed a doorframe on either side, and a door in the middle.

    My question whether or not this is proper. Granted there are probably 20 ways to do it. But what I wanted to know is whether or not there is a difference between this and the other suggestions about "adding" a brush to represent the "wall" between the two 512x512 brushes (put another way, make a 512x1024 brush and then add a bush to represent the wall down the middle).
    I may have misunderstood what Boogalou was doing before. Your description was more clear and I see what you're saying and also how I may have confused things. I personally prefer putting two subtraction brushes 16 units apart and a subtraction 'doorway' between them rather than adding a 'wall' brush in a larger room and subtracting a 'doorway' from it. Although the number of brushes is the same in both situations, the former is less problematic. I've found that adding brushes inside other brushes can cause BSP holes much more readily than having brushes that only touch each other.

    Sorry if I mucked things up a bit.

  8. #208
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be
    Quote Originally Posted by SneaksieDave
    Make sure you're placing a door object from the actor hierarchy, and not a door static mesh from the static mesh browser.
    DOH! Yup, I was using the static mesh. I knew it was something painfully obvious since no one else had asked it.

    Thanks!

  9. #209
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be

    Emitter Intensity

    I guess this is a noob question, so I'll place it here. I am playing around with the emitters that do the shafts of light. There's something like WindowShaft and WindowShaftLarge. My question is how do I change the intensity of the light? The emitter is great, but I want it to be brighter. I'm assuming that an emitter is not a "fixed" object, meaning that I can add properties to it and they get used. I added LightColor as a property, but I didn't see any change and changing the color, saturation, and hue. Anybody else try this?

    -2003MINI

  10. #210
    Member
    Registered: Dec 2000
    Location: Finland
    Do the shafts actually emit light? When I add it, I see particles, but no extra light. In the original missions they used an extra light object for the light.

  11. #211
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be
    That's a good point. Yes, in the original mission (such as the training mission), there is usually a second light that gives and "ambient glow". I was looking to simply intensify the rays themselves, which would ultimately lead to a lower light-level since I don't have the ambient.

    The emitters themselves have the particles and a small amount of "haze" or "glow" associated with them, but it's really faint. I put this as the only light source in a closed room and you could see the glow. I think this may be controlled by the "sheets" value in the emitter properties.

  12. #212
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be

    Light Bleed-through

    Man, I'm just spamming the board today.....


    I built 2 512x512 brushes and connected them via a doorway that was 16x64x128. I placed a door in the door way. Room 1 has a light source in it. Room 2 does not. When I run the mission, there is light bleed-through from Room1 to Room2, seemingly THROUGH the wall! If I move the light source closer to room 2, but still in room 1, the bleed through is worse. If I move the light source to the far side of room 1, then room 2 is dark.

    Why does the light bleed through, and how do I stop it? The textures that I used on the walls were one of the cement wall textures. Floors are cement block. Did I forget to set some property to stop the bleed-through?

  13. #213
    Yep and no matter how much you move the light offset (which sucks to do, obviously) it'll probably never stop, because as I've found (after hours of tweaking and ripping hair out), on each compile it's built slightly different - the damn issue keeps coming back no matter what!

    However. Happy to report, that a fix has been found.

    Not sure if this is wiki'd. Hmm.

  14. #214
    Member
    Registered: Feb 2003

    Lighting question

    I've spent all morning trying to get my lights the way I want them and am failing miserably. For some reason I can't change the properties of lights I've already placed in a room. I right click on the light, find the lighting properties, radius, etc, but it won't let me change the values. They're all locked into default values. How do you change them?

    Also, how exactly would you for instance get a couch to glow? I right click on the couch, add property, then add just about every lighting option I can find, color, shape, light on, everything, and the dumb thing won't glow. I get zero light. I'd really appreciate it if someone would tell me the exact steps to take to get my couch to glow

    Thank you!

    Boog

  15. #215
    Member
    Registered: Feb 2003
    Ignore my last question, my glowing disco room is now complete

  16. #216
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2004

    Door placement question

    I have successfully installed my first moving door but I have a question about the wall its placed in. The room Im working in is 16 units wide and 16 high. Should I build a wall to those specs, filling in the space completely, then carve a doorway out of it or should I build the wall around the door, in sections so to speak. when I look at the game maps, its seem as if the doors are carved out of the wall brush itself but I am not sure.


    NM problem solved
    Last edited by Maximius; 9th Apr 2005 at 12:03.

  17. #217
    There are a few of schools of thought:

    1. Carving the "doorhole" out of a wall is certainly the quickest and easiest way. Also, if you ever need to move or resize the doorway, you just move or resize the hole (very cool). A big advantage to having both additive and subtractive brushes at your disposal.

    2. Building it in sections around the door, as you said, is slower and harder, but you have more explicit control over the BSP splitting of brushes. That will possibly create a more optimized BSP.

    3. In the long run, most of the time (if it's not a jagged, irregular weirdo brush hole) #2 is irrelevant if the BSP process does its job well, so go with #1. If performance is a serious issue or your doorway is oddly shaped, you might want to try #2.


    Edit: too late! well, I'll leave this here anyway.

  18. #218
    I'm doing part two of my "let's recreate london" and this is Bridewell. I ran into a rather strange problem with lighting, and was wondering if this was a common occurence or just something I've missed. I fiddled with the ShadowExtrusionDistance on the torches, and had to set them to 1024 to prevent the light from bleeding through the adjacent walls, but it still occurs.. sort of. See video below.

    http://www.sherlockholmesarmy.org/t3ed_odd_lighting.wmv

  19. #219
    Member
    Registered: May 2001
    Location: Finland
    Quote Originally Posted by SneaksieDave
    Edit: too late! well, I'll leave this here anyway.
    I'm glad you did -- it will be helpful for others Read: me..

  20. #220
    Quote Originally Posted by SneaksieDave
    There are a few of schools of thought:

    1. Carving the "doorhole" out of a wall is certainly the quickest and easiest way. Also, if you ever need to move or resize the doorway, you just move or resize the hole (very cool). A big advantage to having both additive and subtractive brushes at your disposal.

    2. Building it in sections around the door, as you said, is slower and harder, but you have more explicit control over the BSP splitting of brushes. That will possibly create a more optimized BSP.

    3. In the long run, most of the time (if it's not a jagged, irregular weirdo brush hole) #2 is irrelevant if the BSP process does its job well, so go with #1. If performance is a serious issue or your doorway is oddly shaped, you might want to try #2.


    Edit: too late! well, I'll leave this here anyway.
    I.. But... I didn't know you could duplicate and/or move those holes around. I've been going back making new "holes" over and over. I want to shoot myself now, but I would probably use the "subtract" button on accident.

  21. #221
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2004

    Many thanks sneaksiedave, problem was definitely NOT solved. I built it piece by piece but then I became worried that doing THAT might be more of a drain than carving, so I halted. Time for one more question from the kindergarten class? The plan is a four level house, each level of rooms an identical cube 256h/256w/1200b. I want to stack them with stairs betwixt. The question, stack them tightly on top of one another or place them floating a few units apart above one another? Or does it matter?

    Quote Originally Posted by SneaksieDave
    There are a few of schools of thought:

    1. Carving the "doorhole" out of a wall is certainly the quickest and easiest way. Also, if you ever need to move or resize the doorway, you just move or resize the hole (very cool). A big advantage to having both additive and subtractive brushes at your disposal.

    2. Building it in sections around the door, as you said, is slower and harder, but you have more explicit control over the BSP splitting of brushes. That will possibly create a more optimized BSP.

    3. In the long run, most of the time (if it's not a jagged, irregular weirdo brush hole) #2 is irrelevant if the BSP process does its job well, so go with #1. If performance is a serious issue or your doorway is oddly shaped, you might want to try #2.


    Edit: too late! well, I'll leave this here anyway.
    Last edited by Maximius; 11th Apr 2005 at 01:47.

  22. #222
    Member
    Registered: Sep 2004
    Location: Dunno. What week is it?
    Originally posted by Maximius
    The question, stack them tightly on top of one another or place them floating a few units apart above one another? Or does it matter?
    My money would be on leaving some space between them. You'll have more control over preventing lights from bleeding from one floor to the next.

  23. #223
    Member
    Registered: Apr 2005
    Location: Hungary
    Hi,

    Nomad, I tried the sky building and works pretty cool. Much easier, than I first thought. I have some more questions to the forum members. Here they go:

    -How can I make a mountain slope?(There was a wedge brush in DromEd, but I haven't found one here yet.)

    -What are the polygon limits of the engine?( In my T2 FM I killed the engine several times with the extreme polycounts I used . I want to avoid it this time.)

    -I always have problem with navigation in the Editor. In Dromed there was a command to teleport all the viewports to the location of the cursor position.(Synch All or something like that) Have I missed something or there's nothing like that in the T3Ed?

    Thanx!
    Sir Balu

  24. #224
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2003
    Location: Not where I'd like to be
    Quote Originally Posted by SneaksieDave
    However. Happy to report, that a fix has been found.
    At first I didn't think was going to work. I was using values for the shadow extrusion that were too small, though. Once I set the value to something REALLY high, such as 2000, then it worked.

    Thanks for the help!!!
    Last edited by 2003MINI; 11th Apr 2005 at 12:52.

  25. #225
    Member
    Registered: Jun 2004
    Quote Originally Posted by nomad of the pacific
    My money would be on leaving some space between them. You'll have more control over preventing lights from bleeding from one floor to the next.
    Good point nomad of pacific. It occured to me that the spaces in between would be perfect for some secret type hidey places too.

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