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Thread: This sink repair project is driving me crazy!!

  1. #1
    Registered: Apr 2001
    Location: Lost in the BSP...

    This sink repair project is driving me crazy!!

    Trying to remove the hot water faucet from my bathroom sink. It's a 3-part setup, where there are two taps (H & C) and then the spigot for the water. There's no connecting hardware: each piece fits through a single hole in the top of the vanity. (Some are all in one piece, with the two taps and the spigot coming out of a single structure.)

    The underside has a strange setup, in that I haven't seen a SINGLE ONE in any online help site that has this type fitting. They all just go straight up from the water supply and into the brass fitting, so that you just loosen up the brass nut(s) then lift the faucet out! I WISH!!!

    Mine is like this: there is a T bend off to the side that prevents the locking nut and the mounting nut from going very far down, and then it hits the T and they stop. So, it's not a problem like 10,877 videos online about straight pieces or ones that are "stuck". These turn quite freely.

    You can unscrew the locking nut (bigger one) and then the skinny one, but only down to the T..

    And this is all the "relief" you get up top:

    So, I'm not sure what the hell you're supposed to do with something like this.

  2. #2
    Moderator and Priest
    Registered: Mar 2002
    Location: Dinosaur Ladies of the Night
    This seems like something Tocky would be good at, I bet. Not me though. Plumbing is the one thing I refuse to touch.

    I spent my time wading through the poop water, and immediately declared myself DONE! Better to let the professionals handle it.

  3. #3
    Registered: Apr 2001
    Location: Lost in the BSP...
    He was offering suggestions in the other thread, but I didn't want to derail that thread too much with my little specific problem. Maybe he will see this..

  4. #4
    Registered: Feb 2002
    Location: In the flesh.
    This is unusual. Why is it even a T? What goes in the side part of the T? The dish washer pipe? The spray unit? Best I can figure is once the bolt ring is loose then the whole T unit must be turned. Counter clockwise of course. I'm unfamiliar with this type. Look up your brand replacement on Youtube to be sure. That is another reason I would replace the whole unit instead of just the washers. Also use the white pipe tape on those brass connections. Just a turn or two will do. I also use that on brass gas connections.

    It's the internal washers that leak right? Not the flexpipe fittings? The ones in the handles? They cause the faucet drip. You can't get to them by removing the handles and possibly the cover up top? It doesn't look like a central faucet with all the hot and cold in the middle piece. Hard to tell in the close up.

    I hate to tell you wrong but I figure the T unit must be turned if you want it off entire. Maybe in this case replacing just the washers up top is the better option though. Lime scale has made some bits crumbly looks like.

    Edit: Wait. The water comes into the handle then OUT the T unit to the central faucet. Each piece is separate. I'm used to a single self contained unit underneath or up top. You should still be able to take the handle off up top and the cover after it to replace that washer. Maybe the whole unit drops down then. Doesn't look like a ring bolt up top, just a rubber washer, right?
    Last edited by Tocky; 3rd Feb 2020 at 01:46.

  5. #5
    Registered: Apr 2001
    Location: Lost in the BSP...
    It HAS to come apart from the top then, right? That T is permanently affixed, so there's no way it's going up through the counter top. I think maybe the handle is just "frozen" in place. That's mostly just hard water and soap deposits you see in the pics. We have some poor quality water where I live. Clogs up filtration systems in a third of the time as other places I've lived.

    I had to take a break from it before I destroyed something irreversibly, I was so frustrated. I probably just need to free that top handle a bit, and then extract it and the bell there. I have no idea what brand it is, since I don't see it printed anywhere on it.

    Yes, that side 'T' (guess it's the base of the 'T') is where the water goes to the central spigot. Guess it's a design of these 3-parters, since everything isn't contained in a single manifold.

  6. #6
    Registered: Feb 2002
    Location: In the flesh.
    There is usually a phillips head screw atop the handle which then pulls off a spindle. Sometimes it is hidden behind the H which is actually on a cap to be prised off. Yeah, it HAS to come apart from the top. Hopefully each piece you take off will gain you the knowledge of how to take the rest off.

    Do you know if it is a ball cock or a screw cock?

  7. #7
    Registered: Mar 2003
    Location: Still hoarding rope arrows
    Yes, it has to come apart from the top.

    Please be aware that this part can cause bruising if it comes loose too quickly. (Been there. Plumbers earn their keep).

    Here's instructions for if it is the kind with the cap on top

    There could be a set screw in the handle. Here's an example

    There may be more "fun" once the handle is off because you maybe/might need to remove the inside valve assembly.

    I hope the rest of the repair goes well.

  8. #8
    Registered: Apr 2001
    Location: Lost in the BSP...
    No idea what type it is, but seeing some of those pics has brought back memories from 10 years ago. Sadly, I installed these damn things, but didn't remember about the innards until I saw how they took them apart. Now it's starting to come back to me. Will let you guys know how it goes when I get another chance to fool with it.

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